My Car Makes A Clicking Noise When I Turn

Okay, so you're hearing a clicking noise when you turn your car. It's a classic symptom, and thankfully, in many cases, it's a relatively straightforward fix. Let's dive into the likely culprits and how you, with some experience and the right tools, can diagnose and address the issue. We'll focus on the most common causes and offer some troubleshooting tips.

Understanding the Clicking: What's Really Going On?

That clicking noise is almost always related to the Constant Velocity (CV) joints on your car's drive axles. CV joints are what allow the drive axles to transmit power from the transmission to the wheels while accommodating the constant changes in angle and length that occur as the suspension articulates and the wheels steer. These joints are packed with grease for lubrication and are sealed with a rubber or thermoplastic boot to keep the grease in and contaminants out.

Think of it this way: when you turn, the outside wheel travels a larger arc than the inside wheel. The differential allows for this difference in wheel speed. But the CV joint has to allow the wheel to turn and move up and down with the suspension while still delivering power. It's a complex task, and when they fail, they announce it with a tell-tale clicking.

The Primary Suspect: Worn or Damaged CV Joints

The most probable cause of that clicking noise is a worn or damaged CV joint, specifically an outer CV joint. Here's why:

• Outer CV Joints Experience More Stress: Because the outer CV joints handle the larger steering angles, they are subjected to more stress and wear compared to the inner joints.
• Grease Degradation and Contamination: Over time, the grease inside the CV joint can break down, dry out, or become contaminated with dirt and debris. This lack of lubrication causes the internal components of the joint (ball bearings, races, and cages) to wear against each other, leading to clicking and eventually failure.
• Boot Failure: A ripped or cracked CV boot allows the grease to escape and contaminants to enter. This accelerates the wear process dramatically. This is the most common failure mode.

How to Check:

1. Visual Inspection: The first step is a thorough visual inspection. Get under your car (safely supported on jack stands, of course!) and examine the CV boots on both axles. Look for tears, cracks, or signs of grease leaking. A greasy mess around the boot is a dead giveaway. Even a small crack can let in enough dirt to damage the joint.
2. Manual Check for Play: If the boots look intact, try to manually move the axle up and down and side to side. Excessive play in the CV joint can indicate wear. You might even feel a slight clicking sensation when you move it.

Other Potential (But Less Likely) Causes

While CV joints are the prime suspect, it's good practice to rule out other possibilities. Here are a few other things that could be causing a clicking noise when turning, although they are less common:

Wheel Bearings

A worn wheel bearing can sometimes produce a clicking or grinding noise, especially at lower speeds. However, wheel bearing noises are usually more consistent and don't always correlate directly with turning. Wheel bearing noise usually changes with speed and may disappear or become louder when turning. They are more likely to cause a humming or roaring sound. Jack up the car and try to wiggle the wheel. Excessive play can indicate a bad wheel bearing.

Suspension Components

Worn ball joints, tie rod ends, or control arm bushings could produce a clicking or popping sound when the suspension is loaded during a turn. However, these issues usually present with other symptoms, such as loose steering or uneven tire wear. Suspension noises tend to be more of a clunk or a pop than a consistent clicking.

Brake Components

A loose brake pad or a damaged brake rotor could, in rare cases, cause a clicking sound. This is most likely to occur when the brakes are applied, but sometimes the sound can persist even when the brakes are released. Inspect your brake pads for adequate thickness and check the rotors for any signs of damage or warping.

Diagnosis: Pinpointing the Problem

Once you've visually inspected the CV joints and other components, you can try to narrow down the source of the noise with a simple test:

1. Driving Test: Find a safe, open area (like an empty parking lot). Drive slowly in tight circles, first in one direction and then in the other. Pay close attention to when the clicking noise is most pronounced.
2. Which Side? Determine whether the clicking is more noticeable when turning left or right. Typically, the clicking will be louder when turning in the direction that puts more stress on the affected CV joint. For example, if you hear the clicking primarily when turning left, the right CV joint is likely the culprit.

Repair Options: DIY or Professional Help?

If you've confirmed that a CV joint is the problem, you have a few options:

• Replace the Entire Axle: This is often the easiest and most straightforward solution. You can purchase a complete axle assembly (which includes the CV joints, axle shaft, and boots) and simply replace the old one. This eliminates any uncertainty about the condition of the other components on the axle.
• Replace Just the CV Joint: It's possible to replace just the outer CV joint if that's the only part that's damaged. This requires more specialized tools and experience, but it can be a more cost-effective option. However, replacing the entire axle is often the better solution.

DIY Considerations:

Replacing an axle or a CV joint is a moderately difficult job. You'll need a decent set of tools, including a socket set, wrenches, a torque wrench, a hammer, and possibly a ball joint separator. You'll also need to know how to safely lift and support your car. If you're not comfortable working on your car's suspension or driveline, it's best to take it to a professional mechanic.

Tools Required:

• Jack and Jack Stands
• Socket Set (Metric)
• Wrenches (Metric)
• Torque Wrench
• Hammer
• CV Joint Boot Clamp Pliers (if replacing the boot)
• Ball Joint Separator (pickle fork or ball joint press - depends on vehicle)
• Penetrating Oil
• Gloves
• Safety Glasses

Important Safety Notes:

• Safety First: Always use jack stands to support the car when working underneath it. Never rely solely on a jack.
• Disconnect the Battery: Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting any work on the car's electrical system.
• Torque Specifications: Always tighten bolts to the manufacturer's specified torque values. Over-tightening can damage components, while under-tightening can lead to loosening and failure.

If the clicking is from another source, further investigation may be required or a mechanic may need to be consulted.