Fluid Film Remove Rust First

The battle against rust is a never-ending one for car enthusiasts, especially those of us who cherish older vehicles or live in areas where road salt is a winter staple. Two popular approaches to rust prevention and control are Fluid Film and the "Remove Rust First" method. But which is superior? Let's dive into a head-to-head comparison, looking at the science, application, and real-world effectiveness of each.
Fluid Film: The Undercoating Champion
Fluid Film is a lanolin-based product known for its penetrating and self-healing properties. It's designed to be applied directly to metal surfaces, displacing moisture and creating a protective barrier that prevents rust from forming. Many swear by its ease of application and long-lasting protection, especially in harsh environments.
How it Works:
Fluid Film works by:
- Penetrating existing rust: It can creep into existing rust scale, softening it and slowing its progression.
- Creating a barrier: It forms a non-drying, flexible film that repels water and salt.
- Self-healing: If the coating is scratched or damaged, it will flow back together, maintaining protection.
Pros:
- Easy application: Can be applied with a spray gun, aerosol can, or brush.
- Good penetration: Excellent at reaching tight spaces and existing rust.
- Self-healing properties: Minor scratches and abrasions don't compromise protection.
- Creeping action: Continues to spread and protect over time.
- Relatively inexpensive: Compared to extensive rust repair.
Cons:
- Messy application: Can be drippy and attract dirt.
- Distinct odor: The lanolin smell can be off-putting to some.
- Not a permanent solution: Requires reapplication every 1-2 years, depending on conditions.
- Can soften rubber: Prolonged contact can affect certain rubber components.
- Masking, not curing: It only slows down rust.
Remove Rust First: The "Clean Slate" Approach
The "Remove Rust First" method advocates for thoroughly removing all existing rust before applying any protective coating. This typically involves wire brushing, sanding, media blasting, or chemical rust removal. The goal is to create a clean, bare metal surface for optimal adhesion of primers and protective paints.
How it Works:
This method relies on:
- Complete rust removal: Eliminating the source of future corrosion.
- Proper surface preparation: Creating a clean, etched surface for maximum coating adhesion.
- High-quality coatings: Using rust-inhibiting primers and durable topcoats for long-term protection.
Pros:
- Long-lasting protection: If done correctly, it can provide superior long-term rust prevention.
- Restores metal integrity: Addresses the underlying problem of corrosion.
- Allows for cosmetic improvements: Can restore the original appearance of the metal.
- Suitable for visible areas: Unlike Fluid Film, it can be used on areas where aesthetics matter.
Cons:
- Labor-intensive: Requires significant time and effort.
- Requires specialized tools: Media blasting, welding, or fabrication might be needed.
- More expensive: Materials and equipment can be costly.
- Potential for hidden rust: Rust in hard-to-reach areas can be missed.
- Skill required: Improper surface preparation or coating application can lead to premature failure.
Head-to-Head Comparison: Which is Right for You?
The best approach depends on the extent of the rust, your budget, available tools, and desired level of protection. Here's a breakdown:
Feature | Fluid Film | Remove Rust First |
---|---|---|
Rust Level | Light surface rust, prevention | Moderate to severe rust, restoration |
Application | Easy, DIY-friendly | Labor-intensive, may require professional help |
Cost | Low | High |
Longevity | Short-term (1-2 years) | Long-term (5+ years if done correctly) |
Appearance | Not suitable for visible areas | Can be used to restore appearance |
Skill Level | Beginner | Intermediate to Advanced |
Real-World Driving Impressions
I've personally used both methods on various projects. On my 1978 Ford Bronco, which sees regular off-road use and salty winter roads, Fluid Film is a godsend. I apply it annually to the undercarriage, frame, and inside body panels. While it doesn't eliminate rust entirely, it dramatically slows its progression and keeps things manageable. The Bronco definitely collects dirt, and the smell is noticeable for a week or two after application, but the trade-off is worth it for the rust protection.
On the other hand, my 1967 Mustang needed more serious attention. Years of neglect had resulted in significant rust damage to the floor pans and quarter panels. In this case, Fluid Film was a band-aid on a bullet wound. I opted for the "Remove Rust First" approach, cutting out the rusted metal, welding in new panels, and applying rust-inhibiting primer and paint. It was a significantly more involved and expensive process, but the results were well worth it. The Mustang is now structurally sound and rust-free (at least for now!).
For daily drivers in areas with harsh winters, a combination of both methods can be beneficial. Consider having heavily affected areas professionally repaired and treated with long-lasting coatings, and then use Fluid Film as a supplemental measure to protect the entire undercarriage.
Engine & Tech Considerations
Interestingly, the choice between Fluid Film and rust removal can also be influenced by the engine and underlying technology of the vehicle. Modern cars with extensive use of aluminum and composite materials are inherently less susceptible to rust compared to older vehicles with primarily steel construction. However, even modern vehicles can suffer from corrosion in specific areas, such as suspension components and exhaust systems. In these cases, Fluid Film can be a valuable tool for preventing rust, regardless of the engine type (gasoline, diesel, or electric).
Furthermore, the application of Fluid Film can have unintended consequences on certain engine technologies. For instance, if overspray gets onto the exhaust system, it can create a burning smell and potentially damage catalytic converters. Similarly, if Fluid Film comes into contact with sensitive electrical components, it can cause malfunctions. Therefore, it's crucial to carefully mask off these areas during application.
Conversely, the "Remove Rust First" method is generally less problematic in terms of engine and tech implications. As long as the removed rust is properly disposed of and any exposed metal is adequately protected with appropriate coatings, it's unlikely to cause any adverse effects on the vehicle's mechanical or electrical systems. However, welding near fuel lines or sensitive electronics requires extreme caution and may be best left to experienced professionals.
Ultimately, the decision of whether to use Fluid Film or the "Remove Rust First" method should be based on a thorough assessment of the vehicle's condition, the intended use, and the potential risks and benefits of each approach.
The Verdict
Fluid Film is a great option for preventative maintenance and slowing down existing surface rust, especially on vehicles where extensive repairs aren't feasible or necessary. The "Remove Rust First" method is the gold standard for restoring severely rusted vehicles and ensuring long-term protection. It's important to be realistic about the amount of work and cost involved in each approach.
So, which side are you on? Are you a Fluid Film fanatic or a rust removal purist? Let the debate begin!