Craigslist 240sx Coupe Purchase Inspection Checklist

Alright, you've found a 240SX coupe on Craigslist that *might* be "the one." Excitement is understandable, but blind enthusiasm is a recipe for disaster. These cars are getting harder to find in good condition, and many have been heavily modified, poorly maintained, or even wrecked and repaired. This checklist is your armor against buying someone else's headache. We'll cover the key areas to inspect, assuming you have a solid base knowledge of car mechanics. If terms like "compression test" or "control arm" are completely foreign, maybe bring a more experienced friend.

Initial Assessment & Paperwork

Before you even pop the hood, get a feel for the seller and the car's history. This pre-inspection legwork can save you a wasted trip.

• Seller Interaction: How responsive and knowledgeable are they? Do they seem upfront about the car's history, or are they evasive? Trust your gut.
• Title: Absolutely essential. Verify the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the dashboard (usually visible through the windshield) and the VIN plate in the engine bay. Check for any "Salvage" or "Rebuilt" titles. These aren't necessarily deal-breakers, but they require VERY close scrutiny of the repairs. Never buy a car without a title.
• Maintenance Records: Do they have any service history? Oil changes, major repairs, anything helps. A well-documented car is usually a well-cared-for car.
• Modifications List: Get a complete list of all modifications. This is critical. You need to understand what's been changed, and more importantly, *how well* it was done. A poorly installed turbo kit is a ticking time bomb.

Exterior Inspection

Rust is the 240SX's biggest enemy, especially in regions with harsh winters. This is where you start looking for the real red flags.

Body & Paint

• Rust: Focus on these areas:
  • Rocker Panels: Especially behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. This is a common rust spot. Look for bubbles, soft spots, or visible holes.
  • Frame Rails: These are the long, structural members under the car. Severe rust here is a *major* problem. Look under the car, ideally with a flashlight.
  • Wheel Arches: Check both the inner and outer arches.
  • Floor Pans: Lift the carpets (if possible) and inspect the floor pans for rust.
  • Trunk Area: Check around the tail light housings and in the spare tire well.
  • Windshield Cowl: This area beneath the windshield can trap moisture and rust.
• Paint: Look for mismatched paint, orange peel (uneven texture), overspray, or signs of body filler. These can indicate previous accident damage. A paint meter can be helpful here.
• Panel Alignment: Check the gaps between the hood, doors, fenders, and trunk. Inconsistent gaps can indicate accident damage.
• Glass: Check for cracks, chips, or excessive clouding.
• Lights: Make sure all lights (headlights, taillights, brake lights, turn signals) are working.

Undercarriage Inspection

This is where things get serious. You'll need to get the car on a lift (ideal) or at least jack it up securely to get a good look. Safety first!

• Frame Rails: (Again!) Confirm the frame rails are straight and free of rust. Dents or bends indicate a collision.
• Suspension Components:
  • Control Arms: Check for bent or damaged control arms. Look for torn bushings (the rubber or polyurethane parts where the control arms attach to the chassis).
  • Struts/Shocks: Look for leaks, damage, or worn bushings. Bounce the car at each corner – it should rebound quickly and settle. Excessive bouncing indicates worn shocks.
  • Sway Bars: Check for bent sway bars or damaged end links.
  • Tie Rods: Check for play in the tie rod ends. Have someone gently rock the steering wheel while you watch for movement in the tie rod ends. Excessive play indicates wear.
• Exhaust System: Check for leaks, rust, or damage. Aftermarket exhausts are common, but pay attention to the quality of the installation. Are the hangers secure? Is there any excessive rattling?
• Driveshaft: Check the driveshaft for dents, bends, or damaged U-joints.
• Differential: Check for leaks around the differential. Excessive play in the differential can indicate wear.
• Fuel Lines & Brake Lines: Inspect these carefully for rust, leaks, or damage. These are critical safety components.
• Fluid Leaks: Look for any signs of fluid leaks (oil, coolant, transmission fluid, brake fluid) on the ground or on the components themselves. A small drip might be manageable, but a large puddle is a warning sign.

Engine Bay Inspection

The engine is the heart of the car. A healthy engine is essential. A sick engine means expensive repairs.

Visual Inspection

• Overall Cleanliness: A clean engine bay doesn't guarantee a healthy engine, but it's a good sign. Excessive dirt, grime, or oil leaks can indicate neglect.
• Fluid Levels: Check the engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and clutch fluid (if manual). Low fluid levels can indicate leaks. Look for signs of contamination in the fluids (e.g., milky coolant indicates a head gasket issue).
• Hoses & Belts: Check the hoses for cracks, bulges, or leaks. Check the belts for cracks, fraying, or glazing.
• Wiring: Inspect the wiring harness for damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Poorly done wiring is a common problem on modified cars.
• Aftermarket Modifications: Carefully examine any aftermarket modifications. Are they installed correctly? Are the components of good quality? Look for signs of poor workmanship. A poorly installed intake or turbocharger can cause serious problems.

Mechanical Tests

• Compression Test: This is critical, especially on a high-mileage engine. A compression test measures the compression in each cylinder, which indicates the health of the piston rings, valves, and cylinder head. Low compression in one or more cylinders can indicate serious engine problems. You'll need a compression tester and some mechanical know-how to perform this test. Aim for consistent readings across all cylinders, and check the factory service manual for acceptable values.
• Coolant System Pressure Test: This test checks for leaks in the cooling system. A specialized pressure tester is used to pressurize the cooling system, and you watch for pressure drops. Leaks can be caused by a bad radiator cap, hoses, water pump, or even a cracked head gasket.
• Visual Smoke Test (During Startup): Have someone start the car while you observe the exhaust. Blue smoke indicates burning oil, which can be caused by worn piston rings or valve seals. White smoke can indicate a coolant leak into the combustion chamber, which can be caused by a cracked head or head gasket. Black smoke indicates excessive fuel.

Interior Inspection

While not as critical as the engine or chassis, a well-maintained interior indicates a car that has been cared for.

• Seats: Check for rips, tears, or excessive wear.
• Carpets: Check for stains, mold, or water damage. Lift the carpets to check for rust on the floor pans.
• Dashboard: Check for cracks or sun damage.
• All Electronics: Test all the electrical components, including the windows, locks, mirrors, radio, air conditioning, and heater.
• Gauges: Make sure all the gauges are working correctly.

Test Drive

The test drive is your opportunity to assess how the car performs in real-world conditions.

• Starting: The car should start quickly and easily, without hesitation or unusual noises.
• Engine Performance: The engine should run smoothly and rev cleanly. Listen for any unusual noises, such as knocking, ticking, or whining. Check for smooth acceleration.
• Transmission: If manual, the clutch should engage smoothly and the gears should shift easily without grinding or popping out. If automatic, the transmission should shift smoothly and without hesitation.
• Brakes: The brakes should stop the car quickly and smoothly, without pulling to one side or making excessive noise.
• Steering: The steering should be responsive and precise, without excessive play or wandering.
• Suspension: The suspension should absorb bumps and potholes smoothly, without excessive bouncing or rattling.
• Listen Carefully: Pay attention to any unusual noises, such as squeaks, rattles, or clunks. These noises can indicate worn suspension components, loose body panels, or other problems.

Post-Inspection Negotiation

After completing your inspection, you should have a clear idea of the car's condition and any potential problems. Use this information to negotiate a fair price. Be realistic. These cars aren't getting any newer, and finding a perfect example is rare. Factor in the cost of any necessary repairs when making your offer. Be prepared to walk away if the seller is unwilling to negotiate reasonably, or if the car has too many serious problems. There are other 240SXs out there. Patience is key.

Disclaimer: This checklist is not exhaustive, and a professional inspection by a qualified mechanic is always recommended before purchasing any used car. This information is intended for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Use at your own risk.